Let’s start with this map. Never mind that nobody looks at it – but if you do, your eyes will be drawn to the red path that leads you up a staircase. That’s right: it never occurred to officials that passengers traveling to/from an airport would have bags with them; how dare they travel will luggage. To be fair the map does label the elevator, but I must say I only just noticed this myself – not when in the station. Ones eyes are still drawn to the red lines.

The bottom line is, passengers are not led to nor encouraged to use the elevator. They make no effort to advertise it as a convenience tool for those with luggage. The station is like this: get out the train (B4 level) and head for the escalator. You would not likely see the lift at the very end of the platform. Now at B2 level (B3 is closed access), you must exit the ticket barriers and enter the station concourse. Or so you think: I have stood time and time again watching; every time all passengers would do the 180° turn and head straight for the barriers. And of course once a few people do it, everyone else will follow. Those with heavy suitcases will at that point realise they are screwed, since only a single staircase is now available to B1 level. Even if they spot the elevator at this point, it would mean another ¥25RMB to enter the ticket barriers again.

The point where I stand watching all this – by the elevator. You see, if you look at that map, coming up from the platform, the lift is right in front of you. The problem is it’s before the ticket barrier. At that point people’s instincts are merely to get out of the paid area – it’s afterwards that we relax, look at maps, plot our next moves etc. For those who bother to look at the elevator however (I counted none), there is further confusion.

Consider this label stuck beside the lifts: it shows you on B2, and the platform on B4. Where is B1? Indeed, if you went from this, you would think it doesn’t go any higher. But it does.

Fact is, you must take this lift to B1, then exit the ticket barrier. A final escalator leg is still necessary at that point, but at least you’ve avoided the stairs.

Why is it so difficult to understand that passengers arriving from China’s busiest airport will likely have luggage, and that it is not acceptable to channel everyone through a staircase? Why has nobody noticed the elevator goes unused whilst people struggle to haul their 20kg bags against gravity? Public health campaign perhaps? I think not. Why indeed… but this is just one in a million examples of how people don’t think, don’t speak up, and the resulting lack of attention to detail that riddles so many things in this country: however nice they may look from the outside.

– Beijing Wangfujing Xin Dong’An (北京王府井步行街)
– Beijing Chaoyang Joy City (北京朝阳大悦城)
– Shanghai Nanjing West Rd (上海南京西路中创大厦)
– Shanghai’s Hong Kong Plaza (上海淮海中路香港广场).

Despite the lower price tag, i’ve heard of several people complaining about its quality here. GAP quality was never anything to write home about, but compared with those sold abroad, apparel sold in China is reportedly worse (note: some of it is not made locally) . That said, it’s still proving highly popular with the locals.

In other matters, Mövenpick have now launched in Beijing with a store in Chaoyang Joy City (朝阳大悦城). Priced similar to Häagen-Dazs® (well established in China already), though with a more limited offering, this signifies an expansion beyond Mövenpick cartons already available in many hotels and specialist shops.

It’s now also my new ice-cream hangout of choice.

Taxi aside, there are alternatives for those with time, wishing to save money, or simply with nothing better to do. It’s a nice way to see the surrounding area and quieter side of the airport. Note these options require connections for the final kilometer to/from the airport.

Terminal One
Aside from the Airport Shuttle (which originates at T2), you should take the walkway to terminal two for Airport Express or alternative bus options below.

Terminal Two
Route 359, which goes between Dongzhimen (东直门) terminus (outdoors, north of the indoor bus station) and the old Air China headquarters just south of T2 is the only ‘regular bus’ service destined for the airport. Taken mostly by airport-related staff, journey time is approx. 50mins and costs only 2RMB (or 0.40 using transport card).

You must walk 100m down this quiet pipe-lined road to connect bus stops

If coming from the airport, get off at the second stop (白云山站) then walk straight 100m turning left at crossroads to walk a further 100m. Don’t expect many shops or restaurants here. At the airport, thekōnggǎng yīlù (空港1路) stop is on arrivals level – at south end of the bus platform.

The second option is the 915 to/from Dongzhimen. From Terminal 2 you will need to take the kōnggǎng yīlù (空港1路) to guó tài shāng chǎng (国泰商场). Refer to T3 instructions below.

Terminal Three
There is no convenient way to connect 359 (above) with Terminal 3.

To T3 the easiest connection is the 915路支2 from Dongzhimen (东直门) terminus. Note there are variations of 915 – the 915路 itself does not stop near the airport. You will need to take the 915路支2 or 915路支2快 (express) and get off at pǔ mǎ chāoshì (普玛超市). Fare 5RMB cash or 2RMB using transport card – remember to swipe when getting off also. There is a shopping center here, as well as food market and plenty of eateries for a cheap meal. It’s quite a lively area.

The kōnggǎng yīlù (空港1路) to T3 is just down the road, near the shopping center. Make sure you check that it’s the T3 shuttle – a separate shuttle route one bus travels to T2.

The name of course, bares too close a resemblance to renowned Hong Kong chains Chow Tai Fook (周大福) and Chow Sang Sang (周生生) – no doubt an easy way to capitalise on well established brands and unsuspecting mainlanders. Incidentally Chow Tai Fook was established 1929 whilst Chow Sang Sang was formed in 1934, both in GuangZhou and only later relocating to Hong Kong.

Chow Tai Seng however, was formed in 1999 in ShenZhen – but the founding company was at least setup by a Mr. Zhou who worked in the jewelry business since the 1930′s.

All three, you could argue, are mainland companies.

So maybe not a complete rip off… but i’m still sure the name was no coincidence.

Pictured here is the Wangfujing (王府井) store, on the pedestrian street.

I wonder whether it would be more expensive than the US stores, as most branded goods in China are. Better stick to TaoBao.

Instead, we ended up going a bit further to YunMengShan (云蒙山) for a brief hike up the valley. Unfortunately yet another Chinese style country park (i.e. buy ticket, not wild paths) it was nonetheless quite pleasant considering. There were no camels waiting for posers, nor old ladies selling souvenirs. There was a drinks station – but beyond that, the zip-line, and the other people (not too many, mind) it was actually a nice walk through fairly natural paths with running streams and watering holes nearby (note: water still very cold in mid-June). Entrance tickets currently ¥35 RMB.

To get there, or the closed ZiYunShan which is en-route, one can take the 936 bus directly from the old bus terminus at DōngZhíMén (东直门长途车站) – but be prepared for a slow journey and you might have to change to another 936 mid-route. Faster would be to take 916 from the new DōngZhíMén terminus, getting off at NánHǔaShìChǎng (怀柔南华市场) in HuaiRou, then switching to the 916 WàiHuán (外环) for a few stop hop to YúJiāYuán (于家园) where you can catch the 936 destined for TāngHéKǒu (汤河口). Sounds complicated, but it’s quicker. If you can’t be bothered – once getting off the 916 initially initially in HuaiRou, you will no doubt be stalked by black cab drivers. Make sure you haggle. Returning to Beijing, beware the last 916 bus departs HuaiRou at 7pm sharp.

Long distance busses in China often share the same number – as is the case above. Make sure you get the right one. Yes it’s stupid, but that’s just how it is.

A final note: whilst YunMengShan is actually in MìYǔn County it’s closer and more convenient to access from HuaiRou.

This is of course nothing new: original plans were initiated in 2006 by China’s Ministry of Railways with 2008 seeing the opening of the dedicated high speed link from Beijing (北京) to Tianjin (天津). In December 2009 the link from Guangzhou (广东广州) in the south began whizzing passengers to Wuhan (湖北武汉) and back at average speeds of 312km/h – currently the fastest long distance rail line in the world.

In fact, several similar high speed lines are now in operation with more coming, in addition to many semi-high speed (250km/h) railways. Wikipedia has an excellent overview of the China high speed rail situation.

What caught my eyes are the ambitious plans to extend high speed rail travel to Europe: at just over 8,100km that comes to a little over 24 hours, though of course straight line is not possible. It’s a hugely ambitious plan, not least because of differences in track gauge (both S.E. Asia below China & Russia / Far-Eastern Europe to the West are on different gauges), but financing, planning permission, and operation logistics are all issues to be resolved. And then there’s visa’s.

China is already in discussion with 17 nations regarding this very issue, having reportedly already reaching basic agreements with Myanmar and Russia, the former to be funded by China in exchange for vital resources. There’s much debate over the imperialistic tendencies of China here with its ever-increasing dominance in Asia – but there’s no arguing that such a railway connection would provide a huge boost in logistic capability for all involved.

I’m more interested to see how this pans out in Europe. Just yesterday the UK Government announced a high speed link from London to Birmingham, stretching eventually to Manchester and Leeds. With construction slated to begin in 2017 and considering that it took eight years to obtain planning permission for Heathrow’s T5, that’s a huge contrast to China which is aiming for 10,000km of track by 2015. I can’t condone forced evictions nor balk at due process, but sometimes it takes a powerful government to think big and actually achieve something.

I hope China pushes hard with this. It won’t be easy.

This is alongside updated pricing plans (linked tariff for non-iPhone users), promising greater data quota’s than previous packages and China Mobile’s current offerings. The higher the service plan used, the cheaper the iPhone is sold for. This offer requires a 24 month service commitment.

Details of 3G and 3GS pricing and service plans available on China Unicom Online Store (or in English via Google Translate). There are slight differences over the standard packages, notably increased data quota and free SMS bundles.

Note: Chinese iPhones have WiFi disabled, but are not carrier locked. For a full featured unlocked phone, consider purchasing from Apple Store Hong Kong. Or wait for a WAPI/WiFi release in China.

Update 2010-11-12:
iPhone 4 has superseded the 3G/3Gs for a while now, and therefore the above is no longer relevant. Chinese iPhone 4 now includes WiFi, and is sold with updated pricing plans. Contract period remains 24 months, with upfront payment of RMB5,880. This is rebated in airtime, depending on your chosen package, with the RMB 286+ packages giving 100% rebate on phone cost, and RMB 96 plan rebating only RMB 1981.

Some basic background: due to foreign currency restrictions in China there is no free flow of currency in or out of China. Each person has a USD$50,000 limit they can use annually for purchase/sale of foreign currency. Therefore, purchase of USD would generally require registration with SAFE (国家外汇管理局). Many credit cards issued in China have statements separated into RMB and a foreign currency (usually USD) – all foreign purchases are converted and invoiced here. The “foreign” portion of the card works like any credit card overseas.

Typically, my credit card is repaid through direct debit. Once setup, I need do nothing apart from ensuring I have sufficient funds monthly, and both “accounts” (RMB and USD) are repaid automatically. USD repayments here fall outside of the USD$50K annual limit. Apparently telephone instruction are also outside of the limit. Going in person to the bank, however, requires you to carry out the foreign currency purchase procedure – which is troublesome and uses your quota.

- all for a matter of US$20, in my case.

This inconsistency appears to be a fault in logic for me. Despite the forex restrictions in place, there are so many ways to escape it – purchases abroad and repayment through direct debit being one. ATM withdrawal using foreign card is another. For those looking to get larger amounts of RMB into China, you can consider an RMB account in Hong Kong: you can purchase 20,000RMB daily and transfer 80,000RMB per batch to China with scrutiny. Then of course, there’s the underground banks – extremely fast and efficient.

While on the topic of banking restrictions… why can I replace a passbook in any BOC branch but to replace ATM card I must return to the opening branch? why, why?

They really don’t like to make things easy here.

Firstly, it’s a load of bollocks. I’m planning a trip to Tibet mid-October and there’s certainly been no relaxation of TTB requirements. If anything, they are now stricter than two years ago, and regulations are constantly changing (though to be fair it’s still better than during the Olympics).

Secondly, as if the clip is supposed to impress that China is open about Tibet, an announcement that there are no restrictions is about as reassuring as claiming one didn’t commit robbery today – surely the opposite of normal ‘newsworthiness’. Except, when it comes to Tibet, to say it’s unrestricted is newsworthy… but if only it were true.